Today myself and “the Canadians”/some-of-my-only-friends-in-Ecuador went out to one of the Tia’s houses, in the countryside, where we saw how many families here actually live.
It took an hour by bus, passing deep cuts in the earth and tall pinnacles that mark the Andes. The drop off caused me to compare the dangers of transport by bus, car or plane. Air travel won as the least dangerous, buses came in second and cars took third. But don’t worry, wires run along the side of the road to catch any vehicle attempting suicide.
The lines on the roads are just guidelines here. When deciding to pass, cars often linger on the middle line. If there are three lanes headed in one direction, cars criss-cross and sometimes drive more on the dotted lines than in their lane. As I sat in the front seat of a speeding taxi yesterday, gazing out of the broken windshield, I wondered how many fatalities occur annually.
But let’s get back to the bus that took us out into the countryside today. First, we stopped and went to a small museum about indigenous life and bought some biscotti-type pastries in a little town populated with many more indigenous people. Afterwards, we hopped another bus up to the road of our friend’s house. We journeyed through farmland and hiked up a steep road finally reaching her stone driveway, leading us at a sharp angle up to her family’s little concrete two story house. She showed us their guinea pigs outside, which are commonly raised and eaten (the meat is rather expensive, often eaten at festivals). We were offered potatoes and roasted maíz and I was told that my Spanish is good “but I just don’t want to speak it” (not true!).
After sitting on the bed in the entrance room, gazing at a poster of teenage Leonardo Dicaprio and talking with our friend and her mother (to the best of our Spanish ability), we took a walk up the steep hills and along a small river to visit our friend’s two black cows. We passed men cutting down trees, pigs, sheep and lots of prickly plants. The sun clenched my skin and bit me in various places, mainly my cheeks, feet and the back of my neck.
I am now, what they call in the states, a “red neck”.
Here at festivals they actually have pink masks to wear, making fun of the Spanish conquistadors. Sunburn and color changing skin is universally such a crowd pleaser.
So there we were, hiking around the hilly countryside and taking in the views of the mountains and volcano in the distance. It all seemed very normal, despite the long distance we had traveled to get to that kind of scenery. We returned back to the concrete structure and I used the toilet that had no door, and therefore able to enjoy a view of the countryside during the experience.
Dehydration zapped me on the bus ride home. I returned to this beautiful guest house, fed myself a bunch of things, and am now relaxing on a wonderfully comfortable sofa in a well-lit room with wi-fi.
I’ve dealt with people’s different standards of living before, but this time I returned with a normal sense of just being thankful. I feel simply thankful that I don’t have an hour and a half bus commute along dangerous roads at 6:00 AM, or use bathrooms without doors, or worry about the quality of the water I’m drinking. I’m 26 years old and am not ridden with 6 or 7 children already, my houses have never had barbed wire surrounding them and I don’t worry about dogs biting me or being nasty. My living situations have always including carpeting, wood floors or tiles, along with painted walls and windows without bars in front…
(the list goes on)
It’s good to be thankful, and thankful we shall be.
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Equator
Sticking out along the waist of the chubby world, I walked along a red line marking its circumference. French explorers thought they had nailed it, but us Americans (woot!) and GPS proved them wrong. A grand monument marks the old equator and about 100 yards away a small cultural center marks the new equator at the true 0° latitude. The cultural center is mainly a path leading you along the equator as well as through indigenous huts and presentations of wildlife unique to Ecuador.
Did you know there are 600 different kinds of palm trees in the Ecuadoran corner of the Amazon? Or that there are 3 tribes still living there, 2 of which are nomadic? Did you know that there is a beetle, which lives on cacti, that when squished produces Red #6, used in lipsticks? Or that Eucalyptus plants soak up all the water surrounding them, and that they are actually not native to Ecuador? Our tour guide suggested importing many Koalas to fix that problem.
At the actual equator line (red, of course, as seen on our miniature globes) they have basins set up for demonstrating the swirl of the water. North of the line, water swirls to the left (and South… well, what do you think?). A sink sitting on the line reveals water dropping straight down. Here, you weigh 1 kg less, because you’re closer to the center of gravity. Your muscles relax, due to less gravity and when your arms are pushed down by someone, they immediately fall. It’s also difficult to walk on the line with your eyes closed and arms outstretched because your body is actually being pulled by both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. An egg can be balanced easily because the yoke inside is pulled to the exact bottom.
At the equator there are no hurricanes or tornadoes. In fact, in the sea they have the Doldrums, where there is no wind and ships get stuck there. Strong wind currents are experienced in the Caribbean and Australia due to the swirling currents of the water getting locked in to those windy spots. The Galapagos Islands are the only place that is on the equator as well as along one of the four meridians.
I have to hand it to the Ecuadorans for creating a cultural center along the equator. In Uganda, I remember only a medium-sized circular structure that said “equator” and you could have your picture taken in it. Here, they give you a tour of aspects of Ecuadoran culture, wildlife and bring you to the line where they perform different demonstrations of how your body is affected by the equator.
There are sun dials set up, showing how the indigenous groups knew when it was time to plant, rest, harvest, and grow their crops. When a person died they would remove the skin and cartilage from their skull, allowing it to shrink and then turn it into a mini-sculpture of the person’s face even pasting hair on the top. They are well preserved even to this day, mouths closed so their spirits don’t come out.
Wild.
Did you know there are 600 different kinds of palm trees in the Ecuadoran corner of the Amazon? Or that there are 3 tribes still living there, 2 of which are nomadic? Did you know that there is a beetle, which lives on cacti, that when squished produces Red #6, used in lipsticks? Or that Eucalyptus plants soak up all the water surrounding them, and that they are actually not native to Ecuador? Our tour guide suggested importing many Koalas to fix that problem.
At the actual equator line (red, of course, as seen on our miniature globes) they have basins set up for demonstrating the swirl of the water. North of the line, water swirls to the left (and South… well, what do you think?). A sink sitting on the line reveals water dropping straight down. Here, you weigh 1 kg less, because you’re closer to the center of gravity. Your muscles relax, due to less gravity and when your arms are pushed down by someone, they immediately fall. It’s also difficult to walk on the line with your eyes closed and arms outstretched because your body is actually being pulled by both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. An egg can be balanced easily because the yoke inside is pulled to the exact bottom.
At the equator there are no hurricanes or tornadoes. In fact, in the sea they have the Doldrums, where there is no wind and ships get stuck there. Strong wind currents are experienced in the Caribbean and Australia due to the swirling currents of the water getting locked in to those windy spots. The Galapagos Islands are the only place that is on the equator as well as along one of the four meridians.
I have to hand it to the Ecuadorans for creating a cultural center along the equator. In Uganda, I remember only a medium-sized circular structure that said “equator” and you could have your picture taken in it. Here, they give you a tour of aspects of Ecuadoran culture, wildlife and bring you to the line where they perform different demonstrations of how your body is affected by the equator.
There are sun dials set up, showing how the indigenous groups knew when it was time to plant, rest, harvest, and grow their crops. When a person died they would remove the skin and cartilage from their skull, allowing it to shrink and then turn it into a mini-sculpture of the person’s face even pasting hair on the top. They are well preserved even to this day, mouths closed so their spirits don’t come out.
Wild.
Friday, January 21, 2011
Diga!
Speak!
Speak José! Speak!
I could see his mouth exercising, moving with so much power!
Speak!
Speak José! Speak!
I could see his mouth exercising, moving with so much power!
Speak!
Walk!
Walk Leslie! Walk!
Walk Leslie! Walk!
I held her arms with my hands under her shoulders, while her feet stepped.
Walk!
Swallow!
Swallow Tati! Swallow!
As she came charging at me, I wiped her mouth with her bib, hugging.
Swallow!
I do so want to witness José’s first words. Sitting with him this morning, I would not relent, telling him, “Hola!” trying to show him how words were coming from my throat. I encouraged him to use his voice, pronouncing every word strongly, envisioning a breakthrough.
Prior to that I was helping little Leslie walk around the yard, up the wooden clubhouse ramp, over to the little wooden playhouse, and even down the slide covered in water droplets. I had a small desire to be a physical therapist in these moments.
With bravery, they move and try. Leslie quietly insisted she walk, happily stepping slowly and crookedly. José laughs instead of speaks and laughs the more that he tries, getting up and hobbling around the playground and inside the house. His fingers are bent and have calluses from him chewing on them instead of talking. But then I look at my bitten and destroyed nails and can hardly throw a stone at him.
It’s amazing to watch them try so much and so elegantly, without tears or anger, but with unassuming grace and having such a casual way about them. They’re becoming my favorite ones to see and work with, they’re smiles seem deeper knowing their disabilities.
The Tías show the same grace with the children, guiding them with understanding instruction and always telling the children how beautiful they are and how wonderful they’re doing. Words and support can grow such talented and intelligent children, despite the abilities they may not have been born with or the parents who have left them to themselves.
As Tati comes charging towards me, mouth hanging open, saliva dripping down in one long thin glob, I think,
Hug!
Hug, Sarah! Hug!
But it’s really not that hard to give hugs to kids with such wonderful smiles.
Walk!
Swallow!
Swallow Tati! Swallow!
As she came charging at me, I wiped her mouth with her bib, hugging.
Swallow!
I do so want to witness José’s first words. Sitting with him this morning, I would not relent, telling him, “Hola!” trying to show him how words were coming from my throat. I encouraged him to use his voice, pronouncing every word strongly, envisioning a breakthrough.
Prior to that I was helping little Leslie walk around the yard, up the wooden clubhouse ramp, over to the little wooden playhouse, and even down the slide covered in water droplets. I had a small desire to be a physical therapist in these moments.
With bravery, they move and try. Leslie quietly insisted she walk, happily stepping slowly and crookedly. José laughs instead of speaks and laughs the more that he tries, getting up and hobbling around the playground and inside the house. His fingers are bent and have calluses from him chewing on them instead of talking. But then I look at my bitten and destroyed nails and can hardly throw a stone at him.
It’s amazing to watch them try so much and so elegantly, without tears or anger, but with unassuming grace and having such a casual way about them. They’re becoming my favorite ones to see and work with, they’re smiles seem deeper knowing their disabilities.
The Tías show the same grace with the children, guiding them with understanding instruction and always telling the children how beautiful they are and how wonderful they’re doing. Words and support can grow such talented and intelligent children, despite the abilities they may not have been born with or the parents who have left them to themselves.
As Tati comes charging towards me, mouth hanging open, saliva dripping down in one long thin glob, I think,
Hug!
Hug, Sarah! Hug!
But it’s really not that hard to give hugs to kids with such wonderful smiles.
Orchids
The taxi driver hadn’t heard of the place, but after calling a couple other drivers, we eventually were able to find it. It was up a little dirt road and there was just a small sign saying “Orchidiaro” pointing us towards this group of ramshackle greenhouses. We walked into the courtyard area and to a small entranceway where a man was sitting at a desk. He said admission was a dollar and wanted to know if we had any US quarters with states on the backs of them, directing us towards a booklet that he had of the collection. I only had eagles, but he took them eagerly.
He then led us, cane in hand, glasses pushed down, to one of his crowded greenhouses, towards a wall of little orchids. Resting on his cane, he began guiding us through the tiny ones growing vertically along the wall and then beyond into the other greenhouses. Rare little baby orchids had been growing for 6 years, while others about twice the size had been growing for 15! When opened, some resembled a monkey’s face inside or a tongue. Others had leopard designs, white or fuschia, and there was one that was called “Medusa” that had a really thick twisted stem. There were tiny ones, the size of a fly, and then larger ones, the size of my fist. Apparently there are about 4,000 different kinds in all. He had most of them growing in pots on tables, but many were also along the walls or hanging from the ceiling. He took us around and treated himself to a cigarette in the middle of the greenhouse towards the end.
I’ve never smelled a flower so aromatic.
I attempted conversation:
“Conoces la película, ‘Adaptation’?”
“Ah, no.”
“El tópico es Orchids… con Meryl Streep.”
“Ah, esa actriz es muy bonita.”
“Si.”
I can see how the obsession with Orchids could arise: the challenge of growing them, the smell, the different sizes, colors, and monkey faces. Harvesting Orchids is like raising children, their demise being the destruction of years of watering and nurturing. The Orchid man seemed an expert in his Orchid creations, I admired his knowledge and it almost inspired me to focus on something as specific as that. To know so much about such a tiny part of life seemed not only quirky but absolutely brilliant.
He then led us, cane in hand, glasses pushed down, to one of his crowded greenhouses, towards a wall of little orchids. Resting on his cane, he began guiding us through the tiny ones growing vertically along the wall and then beyond into the other greenhouses. Rare little baby orchids had been growing for 6 years, while others about twice the size had been growing for 15! When opened, some resembled a monkey’s face inside or a tongue. Others had leopard designs, white or fuschia, and there was one that was called “Medusa” that had a really thick twisted stem. There were tiny ones, the size of a fly, and then larger ones, the size of my fist. Apparently there are about 4,000 different kinds in all. He had most of them growing in pots on tables, but many were also along the walls or hanging from the ceiling. He took us around and treated himself to a cigarette in the middle of the greenhouse towards the end.
I’ve never smelled a flower so aromatic.
I attempted conversation:
“Conoces la película, ‘Adaptation’?”
“Ah, no.”
“El tópico es Orchids… con Meryl Streep.”
“Ah, esa actriz es muy bonita.”
“Si.”
I can see how the obsession with Orchids could arise: the challenge of growing them, the smell, the different sizes, colors, and monkey faces. Harvesting Orchids is like raising children, their demise being the destruction of years of watering and nurturing. The Orchid man seemed an expert in his Orchid creations, I admired his knowledge and it almost inspired me to focus on something as specific as that. To know so much about such a tiny part of life seemed not only quirky but absolutely brilliant.
"Panama" Hats
We were mis-named
by our Panama canal engineers
Westerners who
thought we should be
Panamanian.
We are made from
by our Panama canal engineers
Westerners who
thought we should be
Panamanian.
We are made from
a special coastal reed
beaten and braided
wrapped with a colorful band
around the center.
2 weeks
to 6 months
it takes
to make us
expensive ones
costing up
to $1500.
Wear us.
Love us.
Let us protect you
calling us
Cuenca hats,
por favor.
beaten and braided
wrapped with a colorful band
around the center.
2 weeks
to 6 months
it takes
to make us
expensive ones
costing up
to $1500.
Wear us.
Love us.
Let us protect you
calling us
Cuenca hats,
por favor.
Cuenca
Paint me a picture prettier than Cuenca and I’ll buy it and put it in my next house. Make sure you collage it with terracotta tile, marble cobblestone, concrete droplets, gauche, acrylic, newspaper and wooden pieces. Drizzle bright pink overtop, along with confetti pieces and marmalade. If you’ve picked the brightest colors, you’ll find yourself close to the beauty of this town. Before you give it to me, take a hammer and distress the wood, chip some of the paint and add some twisted metal pieces to the landscape.
Put a lock on the front, with a golden keyhole, as well.
In this town, eyes and feet rave about the colors and textures of the day. However, at night, doors close up, along with windows, leaving behind only echoes of footsteps and motorcycle engines, mixed with Spanish chatter from kids headed home from night school.
Put a lock on the front, with a golden keyhole, as well.
In this town, eyes and feet rave about the colors and textures of the day. However, at night, doors close up, along with windows, leaving behind only echoes of footsteps and motorcycle engines, mixed with Spanish chatter from kids headed home from night school.
Locked up tight, she gets her beauty sleep.
Saturday, January 15, 2011
El Sol Sonrie Radiante
The sun smiles brightly
Las nubes muevan lentamente
The clouds move slowly
Las montañas son más grandes que los árboles
The mountains are greater than the trees
Hoy es más bello que ayer
Today is more beautiful than yesterday
José Luís es muy cariñoso
José Luís is very affectionate
Hoy aprendí adjetivos lo mismo
Today I learned about adjectives myself
Besides my accelerated language acquisition, I have also been playing with little kids and babies.
Las nubes muevan lentamente
The clouds move slowly
Las montañas son más grandes que los árboles
The mountains are greater than the trees
Hoy es más bello que ayer
Today is more beautiful than yesterday
José Luís es muy cariñoso
José Luís is very affectionate
Hoy aprendí adjetivos lo mismo
Today I learned about adjectives myself
Besides my accelerated language acquisition, I have also been playing with little kids and babies.
The toddlers walk around like little philosophers of the swings and the outdoor toys. Mateo wears a yellow knitted vest and grayish green corduroys, his eyes deep brown crevices atop his cheekbones. Lucas’s cheeks weigh down both sides of his face and he easily moves the white metal crib and climbs up the sides. Aissiata wears a watermelon jacket and neon pink sneakers protect her feet. Felipe is bundled in an aqua cotton jacket, his hoodie covering his head tightly, a cartoon character stitched on the front.
I know at night, while contemplating human nature, their squealing and laughter bonds them even closer.
If there were a child that I would adopt, I’d be tempted to take home Jose Luís. Even when Rosa rushes to push him over, he never cries. Slowly he rises again, and grins. This extends to open his mouth for a contained squeal and then a bit of gurgling from the back of his throat. I would love to witness his first words.
Necesito que uses tus piernas, José…
I know at night, while contemplating human nature, their squealing and laughter bonds them even closer.
If there were a child that I would adopt, I’d be tempted to take home Jose Luís. Even when Rosa rushes to push him over, he never cries. Slowly he rises again, and grins. This extends to open his mouth for a contained squeal and then a bit of gurgling from the back of his throat. I would love to witness his first words.
Necesito que uses tus piernas, José…
I need you to use your legs, José…
Vamos a subir! Sube sube!
We are going to go up! Go up! Go up!
Only a year ago was relying on a wheel chair, now he can run around the yard. His knee and elbow pads that he was given for Christmas are comical to me, along with his baby blue glasses that he constantly yanks off his head. When I see him running towards me, grinning madly and gearing up his throat for words which never come, endearment floods me. Sometimes he quietly curls up next to me, or sits on his knees staring at me as he slowly loses his balance and falls back. I had him hold a baby doll the other day, which he so sweetly and thoughtfully stroked and kissed in his arms.
All of the children here are taken care of so well. Their caretakers (“Tías” = Aunts) switch off duty every few days in their color coded teams (green, blue and red). They provide a healthy diet and take notes on each child’s development, which are filed by the Social Worker. Some children were picked up at hospitals, others were found wandering. In order for a child to stay here, they must be parent-less for at least a year. This means that the parents have proven that they cannot take care of them, are missing, or have given up.
Orphanages no longer exist in the US. They were replaced by the Foster Care system a few decades ago. I must say though, these children are blooming within these walls. Moreover, when adopted they will come with thick files of their growing up, along with a scrapbook of pictures from along the way. They will have been educated by some of the best teachers, and been taken care of by the best doctors… not to mention the volunteers that have helped along the way.
Last night, Jen and I found ourselves dancing in a nursery with four little philosophers, not to mention playing hide and seek as they ran around the room. These kids are some of the cutest, most seriously playful little persons that I have ever been around. Their photographs alone make me grin almost as wide as Jose Luís.
Los niños juegan feliz y cariñosamente.
The children play happily and affectionately.
Maybe I’ll just have to pack some when I leave….
We are going to go up! Go up! Go up!
Only a year ago was relying on a wheel chair, now he can run around the yard. His knee and elbow pads that he was given for Christmas are comical to me, along with his baby blue glasses that he constantly yanks off his head. When I see him running towards me, grinning madly and gearing up his throat for words which never come, endearment floods me. Sometimes he quietly curls up next to me, or sits on his knees staring at me as he slowly loses his balance and falls back. I had him hold a baby doll the other day, which he so sweetly and thoughtfully stroked and kissed in his arms.
All of the children here are taken care of so well. Their caretakers (“Tías” = Aunts) switch off duty every few days in their color coded teams (green, blue and red). They provide a healthy diet and take notes on each child’s development, which are filed by the Social Worker. Some children were picked up at hospitals, others were found wandering. In order for a child to stay here, they must be parent-less for at least a year. This means that the parents have proven that they cannot take care of them, are missing, or have given up.
Orphanages no longer exist in the US. They were replaced by the Foster Care system a few decades ago. I must say though, these children are blooming within these walls. Moreover, when adopted they will come with thick files of their growing up, along with a scrapbook of pictures from along the way. They will have been educated by some of the best teachers, and been taken care of by the best doctors… not to mention the volunteers that have helped along the way.
Last night, Jen and I found ourselves dancing in a nursery with four little philosophers, not to mention playing hide and seek as they ran around the room. These kids are some of the cutest, most seriously playful little persons that I have ever been around. Their photographs alone make me grin almost as wide as Jose Luís.
Los niños juegan feliz y cariñosamente.
The children play happily and affectionately.
Maybe I’ll just have to pack some when I leave….
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